Muzzleloading on the Wing
By Luke Clayton
When the subject of hunting with a muzzleloader
is mentioned, the colorful image of a grizzled, buckskin-clad
frontiersman with a Kentucky rifle slung over his shoulder instantly
comes to mind. While the muzzleloading rifle did play a monumental
role in settling and taming the wilds of America, many people
overlook the fact that muzzleloading shotguns were every bit as
important as their rifle counterparts.
If you stop and think about it, the reasons for
the frontstuffing shotgun's popularity during the formative years
of our country were many. Round balls for rifles had to be cast
from lead, a commodity that was often scarce in the wilderness.
If the frontiersman ran out of lead balls for his rifle, he was
pretty much out of luck.
On the other hand, his muzzleloading shotgun was
a much more versatile weapon. It could shoot just about anything
its owner could poke down the bore. "Anything" sometimes
included small pebbles, scraps of lead or short lengths of nails.
For that reason and more, the muzzleloading shotgun
has been held in highest esteem by legions of shooters during
the past couple of centuries. Moreover, muzzleloading rifles and
shotguns are currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity. This
can be contributed, at least in part, to the expanded hunting
opportunities afforded the charcoal burning crowd.
At press time, only two states in the U.S. do not
have special muzzleloading seasons. Muzzleloader hunting is permitted
during the regular firearms season in every state. Many newcomers
to muzzleloading are discovering how much fun shooting modern-day
muzzleloading shotguns really is. They are also learning how effective
a properly loaded frontstuffer can be on a wide variety of birds,
everything from quail to wild turkey.
Obviously, there is a disadvantage to shooting
frontloading shotguns. You have only one shot, or a maximum of
two with a double-barrel. A great deal of discipline must be practiced,
especially while reloading when game is still in sight-as is often
the case when hunting ducks or geese.
I learned a long time ago that after the shot and
the location of a downed bird is determined, one has to forget
about everything and concentrate on the reloading process. First
the powder, then the wad then the shot then the wad; these-not
birds still in sight-are the steps to loading that must dominate
your mind for the minute or so it takes to reload.
You will be able to rejoin the hunt only after you
have safely completed the task of reloading. Only after the ramrod
has pushed the over shot wad into place can you forget the serious
task of creating what will become a shotgun shell inside the barrel
of your muzzleloader.
One of the big advantages of hunting with a muzzleloading
shotgun is having the versatility of changing loads as the situation
dictates. Put yourself in this picture:
You are tucked away in your duck blind with your
lab at your side. Mallards, gadwall and teal are literally dropping
into your decoy spread a mere 25 yards away.
You are shooting decoying ducks at close range-no
need here for the punishing recoil of magnum loads. What you do
need is a light but effective duck load.
Easy enough! Simply use your powder measurer and
drop 80 grains (by volume) of Pyrodex or black powder down the
shotgun's muzzle, follow with a felt-over-powder wad then follow
up with 1-1/8 ounces of #6 Bismuth or steel shot and an over-shot
wad to seal the round. Presto! You have tailor-made a custom load
that is ideal for your immediate shooting situation.
Later in the day, this up-close-and-personal shooting
gives way to pass shooting at ducks working their way back to
roost sites for the night. Many of these birds are eyeing your
dekes at ranges of 35 to 45 yards as they streak overhead.
Time for the heavy artillery. Set your powder measure
at 100 grains and increase your shot to 1-3/8 ounces. Now you
have a magnum load, one that's quite capable of cleanly folding
a passing duck at these greater and more challenging distances.
The muzzleloading wingshooter has three styles
of shotguns from which to choose. One's choice depends largely
upon personal preference. I own one of each style and, when loaded
properly, they are all effective game getters.
The more traditional muzzleloader shooter might
prefer the side lock hammer shotgun. These fowling pieces can
be flintlock or caplock (caplock being by far the more practical).
Priming them is simple. After loading, place a #11 percussion
cap over the nipple and cock the hammer. That's it; you're ready
to shoot.
I have a 12-gauge TC New Englander hammer gun that
is a real joy to shoot. With choke tubes in full, improved cylinder
and modified, it serves me well on everything from dove to turkey.
For upland bird shooting and especially quail, it's
hard to beat a good double. My 12-gauge double, made for Cabela's
by the Italian gun maker Davide Pedersoli, is lethal on quail.
To my way of thinking, the very nature of quail shooting requires
multiple shots, especially on covey rises.
Several companies manufacture inline muzzleloading
shotguns that work on much the same principle as inline rifles.
A bolt is cocked and ignition occurs when the trigger is pulled,
allowing the bolt to drive forward and strike the inline nipple
with the percussion cap.
Each shotgun style has its strong points and its
weaknesses, but each of my smokepoles has consistently put birds
in the bag-providing, of course, that I did my part with the loading
process and proper shooting techniques.
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